Researching designers that were established earlier helps to give a better idea of the development of brand handwriting and aesthetics.
The first label I am looked at is Mugler, specifically the work of current creative director Nicola Formichetti. His latest collection (below left and middle) for Mugler consists of various sculpted but losely fitted looks with organic motifs, dissimilar to the early works of Thierry Mugler himself whose aesthetic was extremely body conscious. Mugler is one of the labels I am considering researching as a design mentor.
I looked at the work of Maison Martin Margiela. His most recent collection (below) uses a playful focus on tailoring. Exaggeration is applied to sleeve openings, elbow flares and a hybrid of office and sport attire. This collection has an amusing focus on detailing. However, I originally looked at the work or Martin Margiela when I was researching tailoring and it seems this collection does not have enough of a sports inspired influence, which means it won’t be as relevant to my design focus.
Look 11 (Filippo Fior 2013), Look 13 (Filippo Fior 2013)
I looked at the work of Jean-Paul Gaultier when I was researching tailoring originally, Gaultier’s aesthetic focuses on tailoring around the bodice and seems to alternate between textile based evening wear and tailoring. This would not be relevant to my area of focus, but is endlessly fascinating and would be a pity not to include here.
The last designer I looked at in this category is Christopher Kane’s work for Versus. Below are some examples of the sports influenced designs by Kane.
The examples above of Kane’s work for Versus tend to remind me of some of Dion Lee’s work with layers, line, shaping and elbow cut outs.